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May 7, 2009

Scratch Build a Newsstand: Part 4


Dual Build
newsstand7-cb
We now move into my version of a newsstand.  The most obvious difference from Frank’s previous newsstand is that mine has a counter and the worker is sheltered inside.  Both of the styles we did are very common in cities and towns throughout World.  Some other common styles I have seen while researching my design were a simple foldable rack to a large walk in kiosk.

The Prototype

Unlike Frank’s version, mine is not based on a specific prototype.  It is based loosely on a few different versions that had elements that I liked.  I then took those elements and formed mine from those.

As some of you know, I started building an el station about a year ago.  A very common location for a newsstand was under the stairs leading up to the station.  When I begin work again on the station I will be building another for it.

Materials Needed

  • Sheet Styrene
    • .020″
  • Strip Styrene
    • .010 x .030″
    • .010 x .040″
    • .010 x .100″
    • .010 x .125″
  • Other
    • Olive Drab paint
    • Alcohol/India Ink mixture
    • Plastic Cement

Construction

I kept my design fairly basic because many prototypes that I had looked at were basic.  Even though there were many attractive designs out there, this is what I wanted.  Because of this construction is not very difficult.

Walls

My newsstands dimensions are  3/4″ wide, 1/4″ deep and 3/4″ tall or a scale 10′ x 4′ x 10′.  I began by cutting the side walls first from .020″ sheet styrene.  I cut them about 3 1/2′ wide and 9 1/2′ tall,  you will need two of these pieces.  Once cut measure down about 1 1/2′ from the top, make a mark with a pencil.  Take your straight  edge and place it from the opposite corner and to the mark you just made, then cut.

The back is simply done by cutting your sheet stock into a 8′ x 9 1/2′ rectangle.

On the front I cut some sheet into a small piece that is the same width as the back (9 1/2′) and then only 2 1/2′ tall.  This piece will be the bottom of the counter.

Gluing the walls

I first glued the back to one of the side walls first, make sure that you glue the back piece to the inside of the wall using plastic cement.  When gluing up your walls make sure that you are keeping them square.  Now glue the opposing wall in the same manner of the first wall.  After the three pieces have set up, glue on the small front section.

Walls glued together

Walls glued together

Adding Depth

Around the top of the stand I added a .020″ bump-out.  I started it on the front first and then worked it around.  On the front it measures 3′ tall, then I cut it about .050″ wider than the front of the stand.  Doing this makes up for the added thickness that you will be adding to the sides next.  The back needs to be the same width as the front so it could be cut from one larger piece.  The sides are the same width as the the existing sides.  Cut them so they are 3′ tall and then cut the same bevel on the existing side walls.

Once all four pieces are cut then go ahead glue them to the walls.  After the glue has set up you might need to file a few edges so they are flush.

Next I start to add pieces of trim.  I added strips of .010 x .040″ to the side walls, make them flush to the front and back walls.  On the back use the same size of strip for the corner trim, this time extend it to the edge of the strips that you just added.  I then added two other strips to the back to divide it into three panels.

On the front I added some .010 x .100″ strip styrene in the same manner as the edge trim on the back.

For the counter top I used the same .010 x .100″ stock, I simply cut it to width and glued it into place.  Then the last piece I added was a small piece of stock for a door on the left side of the stand.  I cut it to about 2 x 6′.

Roof & Additional Trim

The roof I cut so it would over hang each wall by about a foot.  Once cut I glued it to the top of the stand making sure to keep it centered.

I then added some .010 x .030″ strip to the underside to disguise a few minor gaps and to add a little more aesthetics to it.

Roof and trim added

Roof and trim added

To Be Continued…

In the second part of my newsstand we will give it some paint, weather it and detail it.

About the Author

— Co-founder of N scale Limited, Chris was bitten by the model railroading bug when he was 14, originally working with HO scale he soon discovered the limitless possibilities of N scale. It was only a few years ago when Chris decided that it was time to break free of the kit bubble and begin scratch building structures. The few structures Chris has built have gone on to acquire multiple Best of Show awards in NMRA and non-NMRA judged shows. He is also a member of the budding Junction City N-scalers modular club based out of Ogden, UT that will strive for the best of what N-scale modelers have to offer.
  • Greg Woolliscroft

    Stunning…yet ANOTHER work of art, and respect to you and Frank for imparting your knowledge so willingly…….BRILLIANT………

  • Greg Woolliscroft

    just viewed it again….the weathering looks so realistic…can’t wait for part 5…..there dosn’t seem to be anything really out there relating to painting and weathering from a tutorial perspective for us modelers,at some point I’d like to know how you get the rusting effect I’ve seen on a few of your structures, like the EL station…you did give a tutorial on how you painted and weathered it but I can’t remember reading anything about the rusting on the supports.It looked awesome….

  • Chris Brimley

    Greg,
    I will have part 5 up in a few days, I have been sucked into the Hudson Building and have been neglecting other tasks.
    That rusting effect I did on the El was actually pretty simple if I remember it right. But all I did was I would dip my brush in to the paint and then dipped it in a small bottle of thinner. I had to play around with it for awhile till I got it right. I had a few reference photos on hand so I could get the colors right and the placement of the rust color where it would be naturally. That a key part of recreating rust is even if the color is slightly off, if it is in the correct places then it is believable. Also I layer different colors (orange, burgundy, browns). Rust is usually different shades, even on the same location.
    I know that this isn’t the best tutorial but I will kick something around for an article. Maybe I will do a video tutorial like you want us to do, the problem is I haven’t got a structure yet to do it on. After I have the Hudson Building done I want to do an industrial structure, that might be a good time to do this type of thing.

  • Greg Woolliscroft

    I really wish you would do the video tutorial…it sounds really technical and complicated when it’s in text form…..I’m pretty sure I could get it if I saw you do it……anyway, really looking forward to part 5….keep up the great work both of you…..

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