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May 10, 2009

Hudson Life Building: It Begins

I must admit that I don’t enjoy making the first step with starting a new building.  I always have a sense of uneasiness before I cut that first part.  That feeling was much worse starting this building, and I sat in front of my work bench and stared at the plans for about an hour before made that cut.  After that wall has been knocked down, all is well, that is until it is time to paint.

Construction

So after the introduction of the Hudson Life Building last week it is time begin construction.  One thing to keep in mind with these updates is that they are not going to be as detailed of an article as the Sinclair Service Station or the Newsstands.  This is more of a “follow the build”, but I will still detail as much as possible, but due to the scale of the building some things may be omitted.  If there is something that I gloss over or don’t mention and you still have questions, please ask.  So now it begins.

Framework

Like in my previous buildings, I like to build a frame that the rest of the structure is then added to in layers.  Typically the frame is built from different widths of .060″ strip styrene.  I like this thickness because it is sturdy, cuts well and does not warp as easy as thinner stock.  However I will use thinner stock mixed with .060″ if the situation calls for it.

The first parts cut were the long vertical portions that the rest of the structure will be built upon.  I cut these from .188″ strip.  The windows on the bottom two and the top floor are wider than the rest in the middle of the structure.  I added shorter strips of .125″ material to flank the longer pieces so as to add bulk in between floor 3-9 windows.  I had to make ten of these pieces for the front and two sides.

The outside vertical pieces had to be built in the same manner but with different size of strip.  On the front wall I needed two pieces with an .125″ tall part and a .250″ short part glued to one side of the tall part.  On the side wall needed two of the same parts just made as well as two with the .125″ part replaced with a square .060″ part.

Next I cut all of the horizontal parts that will separate each floor.  Between floors 4 & 9, these dividers are made up from three pieces each and this is where I switch to .040″ thick stock.  What is needed for these sections is one .040x.250″ cut to a scale 7′, one .040x.060″ cut to the same length and one .020x.040″ cut to the same length as well.  You will need a total of 65 of each piece.  How they work together, is the .040x.060″ piece is laid on the top of the .250″ piece and the .020″ piece rests on the foot.  This creates the look of a recessed panel.  On the section between floors 3 & 4, you want it to be a flat panel, so use a .060x.250″ piece and a .040x.060″ piece.

Between floor 9 & 10 is a simple .060x.250″ strip cut to a scale 10′.  The same part is needed as well to go between floors 2 & 3, but a piece of .060x.125″ is needed as well.  While I had the 10′ measurement fixed on my chopper, I cut a few other parts that I would need in the future.  I cut some .060″ square stock and some .040x.188″ stock as well.  If you notice the windows in the corners on the 1st & 2nd floors are a few feet wider that the rest.  I simply cut the same material as above to a length of  12′.

Glue Up

I have a handy dandy jig that I use for glue up for all of my structures.  It is basically a sheet of metal with all of the ends bent at 90°, then it comes with some magnets to clamp your item you are gluing.  It is very useful because helps you keep what you are gluing up square and flat.  I didn’t have this jig when I built the Dominion Building and it suffered because of it.   

I first glued up the front of the building.  I cut a few jigs to act as spacers between each floor cut from extra strip styrene.  The first jig was cut as a spacer between the bottom of the building and the top of the 2nd floor.  The next jig was for the 3rd floor windows and the last was some extra horizontal pieces that go between each window.  The rest of the windows are square so that is why this last piece worked as a jig.  

Front in the gluing jig.

Front in the gluing jig.

From here on all I simply did was work from the bottom right corner and worked my way to the top right corner.  When using the jigs, try to keep them centered in the window when adding glue.  If you have it touching one of the sides, the capillary action of the plastic cement will work its way to it, thus causing problems.

Let each frame set up for about an hour in the gluing jig.  It will stick to the jig, but you should be able to gently pop it out without any problems.

Once all the frames are done I added a little bit of extra bracing to the backs, just to help prevent any warpage in the future.  I now glued the side walls to the back of the front frame again using the gluing jig.  I made a simple back piece that was the same width and height as the front, then I glued it to the side walls.

Three walls glued up.

Three walls glued up.

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Bracing for additional strength.

Adding Bulk

On the bottom three floors and eventually the rest of the building more strips of styrene will be layered to the framework.  This will create the illusion of mass and weight, this is an area I always felt the Dominion Building lacked.  This is a simple trick that is used similarly in the kits that are made by CMR, for those of you that have built them.  

The first part that you add is critical, I first added the cornice between the 3rd & 4th floors.  Everything above and below this piece will be affected by this piece.  So if it is not level, everything else will not be level and you will fight it for the rest of the construction. . . . no pressure now!  Little steps like this will affect the outcome of the building.  I first add a .060x.188″ core that the rest of the cornice will be built upon.

I then added multiple sizes of strip styrene below this piece to double the thickness of the walls.  Once I have this done I take the extra parts that I cut out earlier for the division between the 1st & 2nd floors.

Cornice and bulk being added

Cornice and bulk being added

Close up of the adding of bulk

Close up of the adding of bulk

Facade

Now comes the crazy part that I am going to do on the entire building.  Anywhere on the facade of the prototype building that is larger cut stone, I am going to replicate this by cutting separate ”tiles” of strip styrene.  I tested this on the Gordon Building with great success and so I am going to do it again on a much larger scale.   I wont go into much detail on this but it is the same concept as adding tile to a shower.  You add a little cement, add the tile, position and repeat.  If you don’t think too much about it, it is not that hard to get through and can be quite relaxing.  

After I added the other cornice between the 2nd & 3rd floors, I added the facade to the third floor.  It is simply like the prototype and it is cut stone and brick in a stripe pattern.  It is a simple detail but I was surprised at how much texture and detail it added.  It probably stands out because it is the only completed  portion so far.  It will blend as more of the building comes along over time.

Corner of the 3rd floor facade

Corner of the 3rd floor facade

3rd floor detail

3rd floor detail

Conclusion

In the first week of work, a healthy chunk of the building was completed, not every week will be as fruitful as this.  Life happens so there will be weeks that I get allot done and others very little.  I hope you approve of my new little building and I hope you will learn something new that you will use as you build your own structures. 

About the Author

— Co-founder of N scale Limited, Chris was bitten by the model railroading bug when he was 14, originally working with HO scale he soon discovered the limitless possibilities of N scale. It was only a few years ago when Chris decided that it was time to break free of the kit bubble and begin scratch building structures. The few structures Chris has built have gone on to acquire multiple Best of Show awards in NMRA and non-NMRA judged shows. He is also a member of the budding Junction City N-scalers modular club based out of Ogden, UT that will strive for the best of what N-scale modelers have to offer.
  • Greg Woolliscroft

    Fantastic…..and it’s looking good already……I know what you mean about the first cut, I always despair when I do it…..sometimes after abot an hour I leave it and then come back to it…..my new Hotel building has been made from strip balsa..I’ve never done it before, I’m pleased with the overall look of it but because I couldn’t get the exact sizes I needed the scale is not exact enough, but I thought I’d carry on with it anyway…. anyway, back to this, I can’t wait for the installments, especially the painting….Thanks Chris….

  • http://www.appalachiansouthern.com Hutch

    Oh my, this is fantastic. It is going to be such a great build! Can’t wait to see more. Great work!

  • Chris Brimley

    Thanks guys,
    So far it has been allot of fun to build and I very happy with its progress.

    The next update is coming on Sunday.

  • Jim Boyer

    Great start Chris. I can see already that I’ll be able to pick up some cool tips from your workmanship. Can hardly wait for Sunday for the next update!

  • Frank Giacobbe

    Chris, rather than e-mail you on this, I thought I’d ask here because I think others can benefit from it.

    When you put the individual cut stone facade pieces in place, do you try to leave a hairline space between pieces or do you butt these flush up against each other?

    I’m guessing that you don’t create a space and that the lines of the cut pieces are simply brought out by the weathering. Is that right?

  • Chris Brimley

    I butt them up together good and snug like on the prototype. I guess I should have clarified that.

    It is hard to see the seams in the photos and even in person if done right. When I paint and especially weather, they will stand out.

    I will be using that same trick I used on the Gordon Building with multiple washes to make the detail shine.

  • Jeff G.

    This is going to be beautiful! Do you find your method better/easier than “score and snap” to create the subwalls and window openings, particularly in terms of keeping everything in alignment?

    Looking forward to seeing more!

  • Chris Brimley

    Jeff,
    I haven’t had any issues with having pieces going out of alignment, as long as care is taken. I think the “score and snap” method is great for smaller structures. But for the larger structures, such as this building, I like to build the frame work for many reasons.

    1). It is very strong and I don’t need to worry about warping and flexing with a thinner sheet. I would be adding a ruff frame to the back of the sheet anyway.

    2). In buildings that have a masonry or stone facade, the walls are generally thick and the windows are usually recessed in. So doing the frame also takes care of this step as well. With the other method I would need to add strip to the back side again for the windows.

    3). With care I can get all of my window openings and structural members perfectly square as well, I don’t need to come back and file openings and worry about my cuts being off.

    Each style has a place to me and I am sure there are counter arguments to my reasons. Like most aspects of this hobby there are a half dozen ways to do a single task. Whatever works best for you is the right way. Great question Jeff!

    It is good to hear from you again, I knew you always liked these Sunday building updates.

  • Don

    Chris,
    A beautiful start. Can’t wait for the next installment. I just had a couple of questions.
    1. You say you use a Chopper. I have used the Chopper and Chopper II for years, but I often end up filing the end because the cut comes out beveled (not square) I have look for a bland that is straight on one side and beveled on one side to allow for straight cuts, but have not seen one. How do you deal with this. I know in cutting this many little parts, you can’t possibly file the end of each one, right? Besides that takes away from the advantage of the Chopper to cut consistant lenghts.

    2. About the individual stones. It’s hard to see the detail, but I see a horizontal stript of solid styrene (I’ll call it stone) and then a horizontal stip of I would call brick. It’s it this brick that you cut and lay individually, or, are you using some type of brick sheets?

    Thanks for your answers,
    Don

  • Don

    Thanks, Chris, it seems like we all have the issue with the ends bevelling. Wouldn’t it be nice if some one made a single edge razor blade with a gilotine type blade (sharpen on one side and straight on the other)

    Ok, where is the brick sheet from? Who makes it?

    Thanks,
    Don

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