Comments on: Painting Molded in Windows Fast

By: Chris Brimley

Chris Brimley — Fri, 18 Mar 2011 00:11:00 +0000

I have actually used rubber cement now with great success on a few structures sense doing this project.

By: Railbuilderdhd

Railbuilderdhd — Thu, 17 Mar 2011 15:09:00 +0000

I was thinking how great this idea is and to glue the mask in place would be best with Rubber Cement. That would hold and not leave any type residue and hold the mask well.

DHD

By: Sa2

Sa2 — Wed, 28 Apr 2010 02:42:04 +0000

Awesome!
I will post pics as soon as I am done!
I did the internal parts as flat black in case I light it in the future

By: Sa2

Sa2 — Wed, 28 Apr 2010 01:42:00 +0000

Awesome!
I will post pics as soon as I am done!
I did the internal parts as flat black in case I light it in the future

By: Frank Giacobbe

Frank Giacobbe — Mon, 26 Apr 2010 21:56:15 +0000

Typically, you don't need to prime your structures — DPM or otherwise. The paint will adhere fine to a DPM wall and will cover well. The only real reason to prime would be if paint wouldn't adhere on its own, which is not a problem.

If you intend to light your structure, you can paint the insides of the walls a dark color (like blacK) to prevent the building from glowing when lit.

By: satu

satu — Mon, 26 Apr 2010 06:35:14 +0000

I am getting ready to paint my first DPM building, and was wondering did you primer the building first before painting?

By: Chris Brimley

Chris Brimley — Tue, 19 Jan 2010 23:04:00 +0000

Thanks Anthony,
I still am surprised at how fast it worked, I hope to try it further on a few other structures soon.

As long as the windows were the exact same size then yes, you could reuse them as much as you want.

By: Anthony Hereld

Anthony Hereld — Tue, 19 Jan 2010 22:41:53 +0000

Excellent, excellent idea!

I would’ve thought using such a method would actually be more time consuming than painting the windows by hand…but it makes sense to do it this way.

I would imagine that your styrene masking tiles could be reused on other structures as well!

By: Chris Brimley

Chris Brimley — Mon, 11 Jan 2010 18:26:31 +0000

Thanks Rick,
I have heard of that similar technique being done but with the base color
that you already have down, I guess a clear coat would do basically the same. Thanks for sharing.

Chris

BTW, I have enjoyed studying and using your layout for inspiration for the past few years, both in magazines and your site. Thanks for visiting.

By: Rick Spano

Rick Spano — Mon, 11 Jan 2010 14:19:29 +0000

Chris,

This is an excellent clinic on masking city winsows. Last night I have been hand painting some window frames and sills on brick buildings that looked rather plain. I used a medium and a fine Micro Brush and water based acrillic paints. It is good enough at a foot or two away, but suffers in quality when close up photography is used.

A technique I used 35 years ago to prevent color bleeding when masking with tape was the following. Spray two or three light clear coats over the model being masked. Dullcoat is good. Gloss or semi gloss could be used for locomotives. The clear coat bleeds and seals the masking tape, so that the color coat does not bleed through. It is not a pefectr technique, but has usually worked for me.

I just thought I’d share.

Rick

PS Who ever Bob is, he does very nice work.